I mentioned in my previous post that the weather had taken a turn in the West Highlands during my week away, so I asked my hillwalking buddies over text what other suggestions they might have and Toezi suggested the Moray Coast Trail. This sounded like a great idea, and gave me an opportunity to head to Findhorn.
I still had to leave Ullapool though, so I got up, got ready and headed off the campsite and parked in town. I met up with Steg for bacon sandwiches at a little cafe, then we met Div in the street on his way to work, like we were all a bunch of locals.
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| Stormy but sunny in Ullapool |
Steg and I checked out the outdoor shop and then went our separate ways, he was headed back to Glasgow but I decided to go with the wind a bit and head East. Initially I had looked at a campsite at Burghead, but I thought I'd head to Findhorn, just to check it out. As soon as I got there, I found that the Foundation have a little campsite in the dunes with waste disposal, water and bins. No showers, but the public toilets are lovely. I was allowed 2 nights, which worked out just nicely.
I parked up in the breezy sunshine and went for a wee look at the beach that I remember so well from my visits to Findhorn. It's such a beautiful place.
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| Findhorn beach huts |
I had bags of time before dinner, so I headed out for a wee run around Findhorn and down to the bottom of the runway at the old RAF Kinloss, now an Army barracks.
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| Nimrod |
I remember seeing the Nimrods taking off here when I first came here, so it was nice to see that.
I got a good feel for the place, and just felt really happy to be in the nice weather. I felt like I was in the right place at the right time.
I got back to the van for the remainder of the curry I'd made the night before and then headed out to The Kimberley for beer. It was a lovely evening.
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| Findhorn Beach |
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| Findhorn Beach |
I didn't stay too long, and then headed back to the van under a starry sky.
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| Gunter under a starry sky |
The next morning was just as nice - I knew I was going to go for a run but didn't make any solid plans. I took my time, I didn't want to run an ultra or anything so I faffed about, tidied the van, replied to a nice wee text from a pal, then just headed out.
My initial plan was to take a chill few miles up the Moray Coast Trail to Burghead then just come back, but maybe a different way. I wasn't sure, and I didn't care really. I was in a great mood and just letting the universe take care of me. Whatever I did, I'd figure out a way back.
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| Moray Coast Trail markers |
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| Pines growing on the dunes |
The first part of the run was along the dune systems - it looks like some sort of desert - stunted pines, scrub and sand. It's unlike other landscapes in Scotland. As I headed towards Burghead, the path alternated between coastal dune and then drifting inland through lovely pine forest that was holding together the dune systems. Running through the trees was lovely with lots of seabirds and little forest birds too.
I made it into Burghead at 1235, and I'd covered 13km already. I found the only open cafe in Burghead (which was outdoors) but it had clouded over and was a bit windy, so I stopped for a sausage roll and chatted to the ladies that ran it. They reckoned I could easily get a taxi from Lossiemouth and that would be much safer than trying to run back along the road.
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| Memorial to the Shetland Bus |
Local advice is always solid and the distance to Lossiemouth was about the same as the distance back, so I figured I'd just go for it. Burghead isn't all that nice really, and there's a big industrial factory on the front. I was happy to leave that behind and headed through the villages of Cummingston and Hopeman, meeting quite a few people out on the trail.
The landscape changed from dunes, to cycle path, and then it was all lovely cliff top views down into caves and coves with some arches in there for good measure. Towards Lossiemouth, I was running right along the sand, towards a lighthouse and then back to dunes again.
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| Moray Coast Trail |
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| Moray Coast Trail |
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| Covesea Lighthouse |
It was a perfect activity to end my week away. I felt lighter, but definitely more tired as I ran along the beach towards Lossiemouth, the buildings of the town feeling like a long way off. I covered another 14km in that section and I was feeling pretty hungry. Fortunately there was a cafe right off the beach and they were still serving food. I had a huge bowl of delicious French Onion soup and 2 cans of Coke and I felt very satisfied after that.
I asked about taxis and phoned one which arrived a few minutes later, to take me back to Findhorn. I asked him to drop me at the pub and had a pint, then wandered back to the van.
For dinner that night, I ate the last of what I had in the van, then made sure I had plenty of time before sunset. I put my camera, the bottle of Ardbeg and a glass in my bag and headed down to the beach.
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| Sunset on my last night |
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| Dram |
I sat for ages until well after sunset and just enjoyed being on a beach on a nice evening. What a nice way to end my trip. I knew I had to go home the next day, but I was ready, I'd had my fill of the Highlands, for now. As I headed back to the van, I reflected on the contrast between the wild weather and mountains of the North West and the sunshine and flatter landscapes I'd just spent a few days in. I realised that Assynt gave me what I wanted, but Findhorn gave me what I needed. I went to bed quite satisfied.
Run Distance: 27.14km
Hike Time: 3h 18m
Ascent: 252m
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